Friday, January 30, 2009

Moving On Up!

Behold, my new digs at the office!
We've taken over the health end of things at Kanembwa Camp since IRC has closed shop in Kibondo, which means that the Health Director's moving into the WatSan/WDU office ... and they're moving into my old office ... and I have moved into the Field Coordinator's office (which has been vacant for awhile now). It's actually a bit smaller than my other office, but I don't need much space anyway and it's got several other things working in its favor:
-screens on the windows! (take that mosquitos!)
-a wonderfully comfy chair
-speakers that work
-lights that work
-under the same awning as my boss's office and the finance office (ie, the ones I seem to always have to run to when it's raining)

All in all, I think it's safe to say that I definitely got the good end of the deal in this whole office-swap process :-)

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

President Obama!

Every once in awhile, I’m struck by just a certain bias in the media – in particular that the US Presidential election has been splashed all over the news throughout the world for at least the past year, when it’s doubtful that any other election (whether that of a country in the developed or developed world) would receive similarly extensive coverage either abroad or in America. I understand all the reasons and arguments for why this is so, it’s just that every now and then it feels like it’s a little too much. And then there are times when this is the farthest thing from my mind. Like last night, when TBC’s live broadcast of inauguration day started at 6pm (10am EST) and was still going on when I left my neighbor’s house around 9pm. Seeing the camera pan out over that enormous crowd on the National Mall, I couldn’t help but feel that I would have loved to be there, to be part of that moment, along with so many other Americans. I shared in the moment in my own – and no less memorable – way though. With Everbright (my neighbor’s 7 year old daughter) perched in the chair next to me, I watched Obama make his entrance and then couldn’t help but laugh a little when Everbright, momentarily distracted from playing games on my phone by the fanfare, looked at the tv and then turned to me, her big eyes even rounder than usual.
“He’s black?!?” she asked, “I thought he was white!”
“Not only that,” I replied … “do you know where his father was born?”
“Nooo”
“Kenya!”
“Joking!!! Nuh uh! You’re joking!”

Of course, its not just his heritage that makes his election so exciting and inspiring, but I didn’t think her attention span was quite up to the task of listening to me babble on (plus, the ceremony was starting), so I left it at that. Sure enough, my phone proved to be more captivating than the tv that my eyes were locked on, and Everbright went back to playing its soccer game as the invocation, oaths of office, and performances got under way. The other English-speaking members of her family were away at school and on business, so when the President (!!!) stepped up to the podium to deliver his address, I was a little surprised to discover that membership in my Obama fan club had doubled (from one person to two…). One of the compound’s guards (who I don’t think speaks much English, although I could be wrong) was standing raptly at the window, watching the speech (he didn’t join me in my little dance of happiness at the end of the ceremony, but just having people around who were happy about the inauguration was enough for me!)

Monday, January 19, 2009

Dar es Salaam, Round 2

Highlights:
-finding out the Steelers are in the playoffs :-D
-finding a cheap hostel for the 3 of us to stay in for the night (we all had flights the next day)
-delicious birthday dinner (turns out Kevin & I have the same birthday…)

Lowlights:
-forgetting to go back to the bookstore to actually buy books to bring back with me
-waking up at 4am to leave for the airport
-waiting around at the airport for several hours, only to find out that my flight had been cancelled (and that I could have slept in…)
-spending my birthday with food poisoning (so much for the delicious dinner…)

Zanzibar - Photo Album

Zanzibar!

Zanzibar was AMAZING. So amazing I seem to have run out of words to describe it, since everything I try either seems corny & over-the-top or inadequate & still a little corny. Granted, there’s nothing quite like being at home for the holidays, but as far as 2nd-best-things go, spending ten days in one of the most beautiful places on earth has got to be at the top of that list. (Add 5 Princeton in Africa housemates to the mix and that just sweetens the deal.)

Some memorable moments:
Day 1 (Christmas Eve): Stu (Uganda) met Tim (TZ), Kevin (Mozambique), and me at the ferry in Stonetown, and after stocking up on groceries we headed to our rental house in Uroa. There weren’t many pictures of the house available online, so we weren’t entirely sure what to expect, but wow … I think even if we had known, the house would’ve still surpassed those expectations! Three bedrooms, three bathrooms, a big den and dining area, kitchen, small downstairs porch, large upstairs balcony/patio – and all right at the water’s edge. By the time Nana (Ethiopia) joined us that evening, we’d tested the water, started exploring the neighborhood and making friends with the local kids, and discovered that Mwanajuma (the cook/housekeeper) was a fantastic cook :-)

Day 2 (Christmas!): We celebrated Christmas by adding a few festive touches (a few strands of lights, gingerbread cookies) to an otherwise lazy day on the beach … which was then topped off by a Christmas feast of Sting Ray (that we’d picked up at the local fish market that afternoon) and a trip down the beach (and then down a long dock) to the Christmas party we’d seen advertised at one of the neighboring hotels. As it turned out, we were apparently the only ones who had seen the advertisement … but we got the DJ to put the music on anyway and started our own little dance party.

Day 3: More of the same (swimming, reading, hanging out, etc.)

Day 4: Feeling adventurous and having rented 3 Vespas for the day, we set off for the north of the island. The guys were driving; Nana and I were taking it easy on the backseats of Stu and Tim’s bikes; we were off! And then, about 10km later, the whole trip was off. The guy who had rented us the bikes had assured us that as long as the bikes had permits, the drivers didn’t need separate permits. The policemen at the roadblock down the road, however, assured us that this was not so. And just like that, our fun day-trip up north turned into a 1-2 hour-long ordeal that ended with the police confiscating the bikes (until their owner could come and clear things up) and left me feeling like I’d just finished the linguistic equivalent of a marathon. The day wasn’t a total loss though … an afternoon swim and one of Mwanajuma’s delicious meals brightened our moods and after dinner we ended up catching a ride (in the other direction this time!) to see what the nightlife in Stonetown had to offer.

Day 5 (or, Destination: north Zanzibar, Objective: windsurfing, Attempt: #2): Thanks to Kevin’s international driving license and a rental car, we finally made it! Unfortunately, once did finally get up north, we discovered that the only hotel with windsurfing boards was lacking a windsurfing instructor, so instead we settled for a mini tour of the northern hotels … lunch at one, swimming at its neighbor, and watching the sunset at another. All in all, an excellent day … until the car broke down on the way back to Uroa that night, that is (part of our continuing un-lucky transportation streak…)! Thankfully, the Tanzanian version of AAA (i.e. a friendly person passing by) wasn’t long in coming, so we made it back to the house soon enough :-)

Day 6: Having already done Stonetown at night, we decided to do a daytrip on Sunday. The original plan was for us to hang out in town, meet up with Emily (DRC) – who had gone home for Christmas but was coming to Zanzibar for New Years – and then head back to Uroa. About halfway through the day though, we found out that she was actually arriving on the 30th, so that part of the plan got scratched and we just spent the day exploring Stonetown.

Day 7 (or, the Great Zanzibari Fishing Adventure):


Day 8 (New Year’s Eve): Back to the north of the island (this time not driving ourselves though!) for the New Year’s Eve party at Kendwa Rocks. Advertisements for the party had promised African dancers, fire eaters, acrobats, a BBQ, a Tanzanian DJ, an American DJ, and a “surprise” at midnight … if the first three did really perform we didn’t see them and the BBQ turned out to be more of a normal dinner buffet, but the DJs were definitely hard at work all night and the fireworks at midnight were a bit of a surprise (especially because there wasn’t a countdown, so it really was a “surprise! It’s 2009!” moment…). As expected, the party was packed, everyone was having fun, and the dancing on the beach continued well into the New Year (when we left around 5am, the party was still going strong!) :-D

Day 9 (New Year’s Day): Sleep!

Day 10: One last morning in Uroa and then back to Stonetown. Stu left to catch his flight back to Uganda, while the rest of us spent the rest of the day walking around town and had one last tasty meal at Freddy Mercury’s Restaurant (not his restaurant – just a restaurant named after him (he was born in Zanzibar)).

Day 11: Ferry back to Dar.

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Dar es Salaam, Round 1

Highlights:
-crashing in a beautiful apartment
-paved roads!
-grocery stores (I had to go to 3 before I found one that carried hairbrushes, but had much better success with my actual grocery shopping)
-book stores!!!!
-great restaurants
-spending the morning with some old friends (shopkeepers and carvers) at the Mwenge Carvers market
-marveling at how things have changed since last June/January
-meeting fun and interesting new people
-hanging out with Tim and Kevin (also PiAf)
-karaoke night at the Irish Pub
-getting to use my residency permit for the first time (it almost halves the fare for the ferry to Zanzibar)
-successfully buying ferry tickets (I bought them in advance and was worried that we’d get there Wednesday morning only to find out they were fake (it’s apparently a common scam))

Lowlights:
-the weather (overwhelmingly hot and humid)
-traffic (but at least on paved roads…)
-discovering that customs stuff can’t be taken care of at the post office like in the States